Afghanistan 2012: Day 12 Herat Carpets and High Security.

Herat carpet sellers tt

Herat Carpet Bazaar

We spent the whole morning at the carpet bazaar being shown gorgeous carpets, kilims and camel bags. I bought a dark red Kuchi prayer kilim, butter soft and showing signs of 40 years of use. I love it with a passion. We also bought a tourist “war carpet” with a MIG fighter design. Haggling was mandatory but politely done over lots of chatting and chai.








The afternoon was taken up resting (we all needed a break) and watching the Olympics on the hotel TV. Then we negotiated fearsome security at the Nazaryn Hotel – high metal fences, metal detectors, armed guards and x-ray machines – for dinner. This is where the NGOs and security mercenaries stay. We shared a table in the canteen style restaurant with 6 massive Russians who were bemused by us being there. The buffet was expensive but we were glad to have a choice of food. A spinach and bean dish was lightly spiced and a courgette and tomato stew had a lot of chili in it. Great. The lads complained that there weren’t enough chips, so another batch was made for them.


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